THE
CHECK-LIST OF BOWLING PRINCIPLES - SOME DO'S AND DON'TS
DO's
1. Be
conversant with the laws of the game - too many bowlers are not.
2. Make sure
you are gripping your wood correctly. A wobbling wood cannot be consistently
accurate.
3. Check to
ensure that when you adopt your stance on the mat you are facing the line along
which you wish to play.
Remember to
be perfectly balanced and relaxed - with knees slightly bent as if bowling from
the athletic position.
4. Make sure
your whole body flows through with your delivery, from the hand which delivers
the bowl to the back foot that lifts
gently off the mat. Be certain that there is no stiffness in any part of it.
5. Be very
aware of the pace of the green and the general conditions, because they will
govern your arm-and-leg movements. The faster the green, the more alive the bowl
will become and the more sensitive the touch required. On heavier greens the
wood should be held more firmly, but on faster surfaces the fingers should
caress it and the whole mechanics of delivery are more delicate. The movement is
slower, the back swing shorter and with the long, graceful follow-through, the
delivery becomes a gliding movement.
6.
Having estimated weight by looking at the jack keep your eyes firmly fixed on
the shoulder of the intended arc when delivering the bowl. Keep your head down
until after the bowl has been released.
7.
Practice, practice, practice and try to become proficient in all the shots in
the game. Remember that there is a perfect weight and green combination for
every shot attempted and nothing gives more satisfaction than to apply it
successfully. Mastery of this combination is the hardest part of the game, but
ability to play shots with perfect weight and green is a great asset. Their
precise quality is a joy to behold to the onlooker.
8.
Always be positive when you step on the mat. Be sure of the shot you wish to
play.
9.
Always stand well back from the mat when your opponent is in play. Never be over
eager to play your wood. Take your time and fully assess the position before you
bowl.
10.
Remember to use the mat and jack intelligently. Have a sound reason for every
tactical move you make.
11.
When you are playing in pairs, triples or fours and you are not the skip, always
remember it is a team game. There is only one man in command so mould
your play to his/her wishes. Four players, no matter how good, playing their own
games will never be a really successful side.
12.
When playing lead or second in a four encourage your third man and skip, but do
not let your enthusiasm run away with you to the extent of becoming a nuisance
and overcrowding the head.
Remember the
third and skip are in control, and other players should keep well back where
they can still take an interest without interfering and confusing the issue.
13. When in trouble remember that, more often than not, it pays
to play for second shot. Your opponent cannot go far on singles only.
14. Watch your opponent’s game carefully and look for
weaknesses, which you may be able to exploit profitably later in the match.
15. In singles play you cannot afford to waste a single wood and
these games, therefore, are the ones in which it is easiest for a bowler to
build up or improve self-discipline and deep concentration.
16.
Take pride in building up deep concentration and willpower, but remember it is
still only a game, and do not let the result get out of perspective.
17. Train
yourself to think deeply about the game and, in practice, be prepared to
experiment. It is the only way to learn - your tactics and general knowledge
will improve steadily.
18.
Remember that few bowlers succeed in top-class play unless they have excellent
temperaments. Set out to be an example to others on the green. Sportsmanship
costs nothing. A player who is a true sportsman will always be an inspiration to
his team and the serenity and coolness that accompany him will be conducive to
better play, with his partners being completely relaxed but still concentrating
to the full.
Don’ts
l.
Never throw the jack. Take your stance on the mat as if you are bowling a
wood and endeavour to bowl the jack to the distance at which you hope to obtain
maximum advantage.
2.
Don't run off the mat when delivering your bowl. Take your time.
3. Too
many bowlers green 75-80 per cent of their woods narrow. Don't be one of them,
as a slightly over-greened wood is invariably better.
4.
Don't allow your eyes to wander when bowling a wood. Keep them fixed on the
shoulder of the intended line.
5.
Don't let yourself be distracted by shadows or movements. Wait until everything
is still before you bowl.
6.
Don't relax when you build up a big lead. There will surely come a time when you
will regret it.
7.
Don't be too hasty in deciding which shot to play. Study the head carefully for
there are usually many more possibilities than are apparent at first glance.
8.
Don't fire unless you have studied the head carefully and are absolutely sure no
better alternative exists. Indiscriminate firing when the position is against
you can, and often does, cost the match.
9.
Never let your opponent think he has you rattled. Whatever the fortunes, appear
serene and cheerful and concentrate your thoughts on how to pull those shots
back and reverse the mental pressure.
10.
Don't let your opponent dictate the pace of the game. You cannot rush a game of
bowls and give of your best. You should play at your speed and let
him/her play at his/hers.
A GLOSSARY
OF BOWLING TERMS
1. THE BOWLS
Usually a set of four identical woods or bowls manufactured within
strictly controlled specifications. It is essential that all bowlers make a
correct choice of bowls, which they can use with the greatest ease and comfort.
There are
few wooden bowls manufactured today, the modern ingredients being processed
powdered plastic.
The object
of the manufacturers is to produce, under strictly controlled specifications,
four identical bowls regarding their shape, size and weight. Most bowls are
black or brown although other colours are being introduced.
The size is
determined by its greatest diameter measured through its running surface,
ranging from 4 9/16 ins (116mm) to 5 1/8 ins (132mm).
Weights are
between medium and heavy but no bowl must exceed 3 1/2 lbs or l.6kg.
If you
examine the bowl you will discover it is not perfectly round. Its two sides are
separated by the running surface or that surface on which the bowls travels
along the green.
2. BIAS
That
which is in built into the bowl, which causes the bowl to travel in a curve.
3. FORE HAND When for the
right-handed player the bowl is delivered so that the curve of the bowl is from
right to left towards its objective.
4. BACK HAND When for the
right-handed player the bowl is delivered so that the curve of the bowl is from
left to right towards its objective.
5. STANCE
The position adopted by the bowler on the mat prior to delivery.
6.. DELIVERY
The moment the bowl leaves the hand.
7. FOLLOW THROUGH What should be the natural forward movement
of the delivery arm following the line or path of
the bowl.
8. THE GREEN LINE
The curved line that the bowl must travel from the mat to its objective.
9.
SHOULDER OF THE GREEN That
point on the green where the bowl begins to curve inwards towards its objective.
10. FOOT FAULT
One foot must be wholly on or above the mat at the moment of delivery, or
the player could
incur a penalty.
11. THE MAT
The bowler must make his delivery from
the mat (the size of the mat is laid down in the rules).
12. USING THE MAT Movement
of the mat (within the limits of the rules) for the purposes of lengthening
or
shortening the length of the jack.
13.
LONG JACK
Near to or the greatest distance allowed from the front edge of the mat
to the jack.
14.
SHORT JACK
Near to or the shortest distance allowed from the front edge of the mat
to the jack.
15.
THE GREEN
The total playing surface, the measurements of which are laid down by
rules.
16. FAST GREEN
Usually a dry and closely cut surface that offers little resistance to
the progress of the bowl so
that it usually takes a longer time to reach its objective.
17. SLOW OR HEAVY Where the surface
offers some greater GREEN resistance to the progress of the bowl,
but
where the bowl will usually take a shorter time to reach its objective.
18. TAKING THE GREEN OR LAND
Using either forehand or backhand, the bowler bowls to the shoulder
19. DITCH
The green is surrounded by a depression whose edge marks the boundary of
the playing surface.
Measurements of the ditch need to conform to the laws of the game.
20.
BANK
The outer wall of the ditch, which surrounds the green, which is above
the playing surface.
21.
RINK
A rectangular area of the green not more than 19 ft or less than 16 ft
wide on which play takes place
22.
STRING
Normally a green `string' drawn tightly along the green to define the
boundaries of the rink.
23.
CENTRE LINE An
imaginary line that runs length-wise down the centre of the rink
24. JACK OR KITTY The
round white ball towards which play is directed. The size of the jack must
conform to the rules.
25.
PACE OF THE GREEN See 16 and 17.
26.
PACE OR WEIGHT
The amount of force with which the bowl is delivered to execute a
particular shot.
27.
DRAW
The path the bowl will travel to reach its objective.point.
28. DRAW THE SHOT A bowl delivered at the correct
pace or weight, and with the correct green or weight, and with
the correct green or land, to arrive exactly at its objective.
29.
REST THIS BOWL The bowling of
a bowl, which brings it to rest against another bowl.
30. (W) REST THIS BOWL OUT
The bowling of a bowl with sufficient pace to push a bowl sufficiently
from its former
position.
31. PUSH AND REST The bowling of
a bowl with sufficient pace or weight so that it pushes the target bowl
from its original position so that the last bowl delivered takes up that
position.
32.
TRAIL THE JACK A
bowl played in order to move the jack to another position on the rink.
33. RUB OFF
A bowl, which during its running course comes into light contact with
another so that the line of direction
can be affected.
34. WICK OFF A bowl travelling at a certain pace
being able to play a certain shot, which comes into an angled
contact
with another bowl so that the course of the moving bowl is intentionally
altered.
35. WOODED/WRECKED An attempted shot being
frustrated by contact with another bowl, which lay between the
mat and the jack.
36. BLOCK OR STOPPER
A wood delivered with enough pace to stop short of the objective, in the
hope that it will
prevent an opponent being able to play a certain shot.
37. SPLIT THESE BOWLS
A request to the bowler to bowl a bowl of sufficient pace that it forces
apart other bowls
but has enough momentum to carry on beyond that point.
38. FIRE OR DRIVE
There are various reasons for such a shot, but it is a shot where the
bowl is delivered at a
very fast pace.
39. TOUCHER ON THE GREEN
A bowl which during its course has touched the jack. A bowl, which has
come to
rest and falls over to touch the jack before the next bowl is delivered. A bowl,
if it is the last to be delivered, falls and touches the jack within the period
of half a minute. All the above shall be marked with a chalk mark.
40. TOUCHER IN THE DITCH
A toucher, as above, which has fallen into the ditch shall be a `live'
bowl, but not if it
has come to rest outside the confines of the rink.
41.
THE SHOT
The bowl that
finishes nearest to the jack at any stage of play.
42.
SECOND BOWL
The bowl, which finishes closest to the jack other than the shot bowl.
43. THE HEAD The jack and as
many bowls as have been played at any stage of any end. Bowls in the
head
may be on the rink or in the ditch.
44. END
The sequence of play beginning with the placing of the mat and ending
with the coming to rest of the last
Player's bowl, after all have delivered their bowls in the same direction.
45. NARROW BOWL Where a Player has not allowed enough
green or land. But a shot that sometimes can be played
intentionally.
46.
WIDE BOWL
Where the Player has allowed too much green or land for his bowl.
47.
SHORT BOWL
Where a bowl has not been delivered with sufficient pace to reach its
objective.
48.
HEAVY BOWL
Where a bowl has been delivered with too much pace and will end beyond
its objective.
49.
JACK HIGH BOWL A bowl which
when it comes to rest is at the same distance from the mat as is the jack.
50.
BACK BOWL A
bowl that has come to rest beyond the jack or the main body of bowls in the
head.
51. DEAD BOWL A bowl, which comes
to rest in the ditch, or, not being a toucher, is knocked into the ditch. Or
a
bowl that comes to rest outside the confines of the rink, either in its original
course of travel or by being subsequently knocked there.
52. LIVE BOWL Any
bowl that comes to rest within the confines of the rink and, allowing for
conditions as laid
down by the laws of the game, any toucher in the ditch.
53.
COUNTER
Any bowl, which contributes to the score at the completion of the end.
54. DEAD END
An end, which is considered not to have been played, and no score is
recorded. It can happen as
a result of the jack being driven out of the confines of the playing area.
55.
DON'T BE SHORT A plea to a bowler to use sufficient
pace to reach his objective.
56. BE
UP
As above only more emphatic.
57. OPEN IT UP
A request for a bowl delivered with enough pace to clear any obstruction
in the way of bowls
that are between the player and the jack.
58. TAKE IT OUT
Instructions that mean a bowler to bowl with sufficient pace to push an
opponent's bowl away.
59.
PROMOTE THIS BOWL A request
that a bowler plays his wood on to a bowl belonging to his own team so that
60. A PLANT SHOT
Where a Player bowls his bowl to strike other bowls which could be in
line, and thus gain
his objective.
61.
COVER THAT BOWL An instruction
to a bowler to bowl in such a way that it finishes between the jack and the
62.
MARK IT OR CHALK IT
The marking of a toucher with chalk.
63.
WOULDN'T CRACK AN EGG
A bowl delivered with insufficient pace to achieve its end.
64.
MEASURE
A device used to determine which bowl is nearest the jack.
65.
MEASURING
The process of determining which bowl is nearest the jack.
66. PENALTY A
penalty may be awarded by the umpire where, for example, a player has foot
faulted in
delivering his bowl and the umpire could declare his bowl to be dead.
67. A
SIDE OR TEAM Any agreed number
of players whose combined scores determine the result of a match.
68. A RINK OF PLAYERS OR FOURS
A group of four players against four, each bowling two bowls.
Their
positions in order of playing to be Lead, Second, Third and Skip.
69. TRIPLES Three players against three
each using three bowls. Players in order of play - Lead, Second and Skip.
70.
PAIRS
Two players against two each using four bowls. Players in order of play
Lead and Skip.
71.
SINGLES One
player against one player - each using four bowls (or TWO in 2-wood Singles)
72. THE LEAD He is the player who lays the mat, rolls the
jack, delivers the first bowl in an end. He may sometimes
toss the coin at the beginning of the game to determine which team has the right
to start play.
73. THE SECOND OR NUMBER TWO
The player who plays after the lead in a game of fours or triples.
He
marks the scorecard and keeps the scoreboard up to date.
74. THE THIRD
In the game of fours he will deputise for his Skip in certain
circumstances and could be
responsible for measuring.
75. THE SKIP
He Captains the fours, triples or pairs. He is last to bowl and is
responsible for dictating the
tactics of the game.
76. THE MARKER A person who in a game of
singles undertakes to see the game played according to the
rules,
will mark all touchers, centre the jack and measure as well as keeping the
score. During the
playing of an end it could be wiser not to talk to the players unless asked a
direct question.
77. THE UMPIRE The person with
total and overall authority during any game as to the enforcement of the
laws
of the game.
78. THE SCORER In
a match between teams or sides, is responsible for keeping the current scores on
the master
scoreboard.
79. TIED END It sometimes happens that
the nearest bowls of both sides are exactly the same distance
from
the jack at the completion of the end (e.g. when both have a bowl actually
touching the jack). Neither side scores, but it is a completed end, and is
entered on the scorecard with no score to both sides.
80. A
FLUKE
The last thing ever admitted on the green, therefore the last in the
Glossary.